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Heat pumps heat and cool your home using 2–4x less energy than a gas furnace. But they run entirely on electricity — and that changes your home's electrical math in ways most contractors do not explain upfront.
| Heat Pump Size | Running Amps | Breaker Required | Wire Gauge |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5-ton mini-split | 12–15A | 20A dedicated | 12 AWG |
| 2-ton central unit | 18–22A | 30A dedicated | 10 AWG |
| 3-ton central unit | 22–28A | 35–40A dedicated | 8 AWG |
| 4-ton central unit | 28–38A | 45–50A dedicated | 8 AWG |
| 5-ton central unit | 34–48A | 50–60A dedicated | 6 AWG |
💡 Mini-split advantage: Ductless mini-split systems draw far less electricity per unit than whole-home central systems. If your panel is tight, adding one or two mini-splits for key rooms is a lower-impact starting point without an immediate panel upgrade.
Replacing a gas furnace: Your existing central A/C outdoor unit likely already has a dedicated 240V circuit. A heat pump often reuses this circuit — your net new load may be modest.
Adding a heat pump where there was none: A brand-new load on your panel. A 3-ton heat pump adds roughly 28A of continuous draw that must fit within your NEC 80% capacity.
Critical — backup heat strips: Many systems include electric resistance backup strips for very cold days. A 10kW backup strip heater draws approximately 42A alone. Always ask for the kW rating and factor it into your load calculation.
⚠️ Watch out for heat strips: Always ask specifically for the kW rating of backup resistance heat strips. A 10kW strip adds ~42A — enough to push a borderline 100A panel over its limit.
The IRA 25C credit covers 30% of heat pump installation costs, up to $2,000 per year. The same credit covers up to $600 for a panel upgrade necessary to support the heat pump. Check dsireusa.org for your state's specific programmes.
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